Rob Adams: 13/9, 13/7.13/7 makes the 5-prime. This will be useful. 13/9 then leaves fewer shots and blots than 14/10. Slotting the 10pt is not necessary.
Attacking would be better, but the options with this roll aren't too appealing. If I were to attack as Blue, it would be with 8/2, 8/4 (not even listed as a choice). So I'm glad I don't have to attack here.
Another option is 7/3, 14/8. This would be totally safe. Then Blue could choose to attack or run off the anchor next turn depending on the dice. Certainly that wouldn't be bad. But making the 5-prime just seems stronger to me.
Nigel Alsop: 13/9, 13/7.
When I first saw this problem I chose 9/3 8/4*, probably Blue's best chance of a gammon, over the board in match play I still might do this. In the end I chickened out and played 13/9 13/7, giving a better chance of winning the game, duplicating two's in the process.
John Bakovic: 14/8, 7/3.
Look like just cleaning up the position is called for here. White will have to anchor the 4 or bar point to have any chance in this game. Completing the 5-point prime will win more games but 14/8, 7/3 will win more gammons and like all backgammon players we like gammons. All other moves leave to many good rolls for White.
Chuck Bower: 9/3, 8/4*.
Look at the safe-vs.-bold criteria: Blue has a better board and an anchorwhile White has none. Furthemore, White's stacks make it hard to playsafe even when he return hits. Meanwhile, if Blue leaves White alone, a2 die by White anchors and nearly evens the game. If Blue builds a 5-primeby surrendering the midpoint with 13/7, Blue's back checkers will have a long minefield to cross. 9/3 covers the homeboard blot and 8/4* startsthe next best point by hitting. White needs to roll well immediately toavoid being buried, and the anchor gives Blue the needed security whenthings do go White's way.
Steve Clark: 14/8, 7/3.
Outside primes are not as good as the look. Suppose we play 13-9, 13-7.We will be a considerable favorite but White will have considerableflexibility to improve his position. I am not going to make a big playsuch as 9-3, 8-4; my position is too good to resort to such risky plays.My real alternative is just to play 7-3, 14-8. This play lease no blotsfor White and we will have a very strong position regardless of whathappens in the next few rolls. Making the prime also looks good but I likethis better.
George Klitsas: 14/8, 7/3.
Anything else than the natural and obvious 14/8 7/3 would greatly surprise me, if proven to be the right play. To be frank, I took the time to count the Blue and White checkers, remembering a bridge hand with 12 cards that was given to a panel of bridge experts, long time ago.
Rob Maier: 14/8, 7/3.
I'm a big fan of five primes, but this isn't the time. I feel a great need to attack White's blots, but it is a bit premature for that as well. Locking up the three point leaves me poised to after White next roll. If they roll a two, I still have a nice blockade, and there isn't anything rational I can do to prevent him anchoring anyway.
Snowie: 13/9, 13/7.
Five in a row may be less than you think, but it looks like a lot here.White is going to have a very difficult time getting anything going.I'm not too worried about my blot on the three point -- if it gets hit,so what?
Marty Storer: 13/9, 13/7.
The five-prime is a very appealing asset. The alternativeis 14/8 7/3, leaving no shots but achieving a worse structure. That playputs White under pressure, but White has 2's and 53 to anchor, and quite afew more numbers to run or make his 5 or 7. I think the five-prime is worththe shots, 11 1's plus duplicated 2's. The five-prime has great lastingvalue.
Bob Stringer: 14/8, 7/3.
Of the attacking plays, I'd go for 8/2*, 7/3, since it hits to putWhite off balance, but doesn't leave as many blots as 9/3, 8/4* whichis much too risky. Still, even with 2's duplicated it leaves too manyblots, and it also breaks up the asset which I already have. Makingthe 5 point prime consolidates the advantage that I have, and I likegoing for the sure thing here. Move the blot on the 14 to themid-point, and I'd think harder about attacking.
Casper van der Tak: 14/8, 7/3.
Either this or 13/7 13/9. 13/7 13/9 makes a 5 prime, but leaves two blots, and it difficult to improve on afterwards. 14/8 7/3 leaves a solid position, no blots, builds another home board point, and prepares to strike next turn. This seems a very strong, quiet move.
Kit Woolsey: 14/8, 7/3.
Not a very dymamic play perhaps, but I don't believe one is needed here.I have White's checkers well contained already, and I don't need a five-primeor a blitz to win this game. For now I tighten everything up and hope fora good attacking roll next turn.
Chris Yep: 14/8, 7/3.
Blue has a stronger board and a stronger blockade, while White has an awkward position. How should Blue press his advantage? 21/15 7/3 doesn't appeal to me. White currently has an awkward position but after 21/15 7/3, White now has some options. It's probably better for Blue to hold his anchor to make life difficult for White on White's side of the board.
Blue's other candidate moves can essentially be divided into three classes: (1) moves which make a 5-prime but leave a double-shot, (2) moves which attack, or (3) moves which are safe (14/8 7/3). Making a 5-prime (13/7 with either 14/10 or 13/9) looks strong, but the double-shot may be too much, especially since White is at the edge of the prime with Blue's 4 point slotted. Attacking is too loose; it leaves too many blots and breaks important blocking points. I prefer 14/8 7/3, which cleans up the position, makes another inner board point, retains a strong block, and preserves Blue's chances to attack next turn after most sequences. With 11 men in range, Blue can still launch a strong attack if one or both of White's men are still vulnerable.
Summary: I was a surprised that there wasn't more support for oneof the attacking plays, but the panel didn't think there was sufficientammunition to justify this and went with the quieter plays. The safe playwon out over making the prime and that may be right, although I can suresee the attraction for making the bar point.
