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| 147 165 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 24/22, 6/1*.
Blue has been way too easy on White. Time to mine the field.24/22 forces the issue of the blot on White's 9-point, butthis isn't sufficient. White still has many numbers whichcover, safe, or use this checker to build. 6/1* distractshim long enough to get a good shot at that blot. Other playsgive White too much freedom.
Steve Clark: 13/11, 10/5.
I am not much of a believer in duplication but it does have its place.Actually, I believe that this is one of those places. In general it is notgood to slot the 5 point. Slotting tends to be a small mistake. When theopponent has a blot on the 16 point, however, slotting becomes a much moreattractive proposition. The reason is that our opponent will have veryattractive 4's to play on his side of the board, either by making the 16point or using that blot as a builder to make his own 5 point. If we doslot, the other play must be 13-11. If we are going to risk slotting, weneed to be able to make the point when White misses.
George Klitsas: 13/11, 13/8.
Hitting on the guff is out of the question - the position is only slightly worse for Blue and not at all desperate. For the same reason, slotting with 13/11 10/5 is also weak, because with other plays (like bringing two down) the point can be made naturally. One can safely discard the stacking play 13/8 10/8 as well, since Blue will have difficulty making new points after that play. The only serious candidates are the "action" play 24/22 13/8 and the building play 13/8 13/11 (which is obviously much better than the conservative 13/6). The "action" play works a little better when White rolls 31, 42, 11, 63, 64, 54, 61 ( I say "a little better" because in the case of a 31, for example, White can still make the five point, leaving a six to Blue to hit him, but if Blue does not roll that six or a two to anchor, White is poised to attack). Other rolls play much better for White after the split (24/22). Not to mention the crushing 55 and 33, 53 and 32 play better in that case. White welcomes the split, becausehe desperately wants to use the pile of checkers on his eight and six points. The not obvious reason that makes 24/22 13/8 definitely inferior compared to bringing two down, is the fair amount of cases, when Blue anchors on White's three point (if he does not anchor on his first opportunity, he's in danger of being blitzed). When he anchors, he often suffers a slow death (I estimate this happens about 20-25% of all games) giving White optimal doubles based on race and/or priming equity. Blue is behind in the race which is good if the game becomes eventually a priming game. Blue has already made a second inner point and should build on his assets. It's often amazing how quickly (even in two turns) Blue can make a five prime after the best play of 13/8 13/11.
Rob Maier: 24/22, 13/8.
Bring down a spare for the eight point, and split to put pressure on White to clean up his blot. Hitting on the ace point as some appeal, but not enough for me.
Snowie: 13/11, 13/8.
It is generally not a good idea to split the back checker when youropponent has reinforced his eight point. It is too easy for him to attack.Here, the emphasis is on containing White's back checker. The best way todo this is to spread out the builders. 13/11, 13/8 does the job perfectly.
Marty Storer: 13/11, 10/5.
Blue can't consider splitting into the teeth of White's builders.They're all bunched up, aiming at the inner board, and would loveto unheap onto the heads of hapless Blue blots. The only choicesare 13/8 13/11 and 10/5 13/11. I prefer 10/5 13/11 because ofthe very useful 4-duplication and the fact that White has onlyone back checker. If White hits, he has to eschew a good pointon his side except with 22, 44 and 46, all of which are good anywayafter 13/8 13/11. If White hits, he doesn't threaten to anchor,as he would if he had two checkers back. And because White's loneback checker may easily become an attacking target, Blue gains bydeveloping his board as quickly as he can. Quick board developmentalso facilitates both priming and aggressive mobilization of theback men. Though 13/8 13/11 looks powerful, it makes Blue only aslight favorite to make his 5 or 7 point next roll, that is if Whitedoesn't hit with 6 numbers. In many other situations, Blue mightmake a play like 13/8 13/11, reducing White's hitting numbers inreturn for a good chance to make a blocking point naturally. Here,the slot gives an inordinately valuable duplication of 4's as wellas accelerated priming and tactical benefit, so it looks clearlyright.
Bob Stringer: 13/11, 13/8.
13/8, 10/8 is too ugly to be any good. 13/11, 6/1 strips the 6 pointand dumps a man on the ace point without gaining much of anything inreturn. 22/22, 6/1* has the same downside, but with a potential gain,because it sets up a direct shot -- so, it's not *too* bad, althoughI'd like to do better. 13/6 is too blah when I'm behind in the race.So with that I'm torn among the last three choices. Since I'm behindin the race, I don't mind taking a bit of a risk, especially since Ihave the better board, and so slotting the 5 point looks pretty good.Next choice would be 13/11, 13/8, since White has a lot of ammo todump on my back men if I split them.
Casper van der Tak: 13/11, 13/8.
Blue's advantage is a better board, and better prime-building potential. Also, Blue is behind in the race. Therefore, Blue's game plan should be oriented towards priming. With 13/8 13/11, Blue works in the strongest possible fashion towards improving his prime. If Blue would have an additional spare on the 6-point, plays involving 6/1* would have more merit than they do now.
Kit Woolsey: 24/22, 13/8.
This play does two good things. It brings a checker off the heavy midpointto where it is a valuable builder on the currently stripped eight point, andit puts pressure on the blot on White's nine point so White can't playcompletely freely. Other possibilities either aren't as comfortable orconcentrate on only one thing.
Chris Yep: 24/22, 13/8.
Hitting loose seems wrong for several reasons: (1) Blue doesn't have much ammunition in range, (2) Blue doesn't have a direct cover for the ace point blot that it leaves, and (3) it uses up Blue's last spare from the 6 point. Instead with 5 checkers on the midpoint and a stripped 8 point it feels natural to bring the 5 down from the midpoint. With the 2 I like splitting in the back to put pressure on White's 9 point blot.
Summary: A close vote, but the panel leaned toward building ratherthan splitting. I guess this makes sense, with White's stacks of checkerslooking for something to land on.
Play Votes Score13/11, 13/8 4 10024/22, 13/8 3 9013/11, 10/5 2 8024/22, 6/1* 1 6013/6 0 4013/8, 10/8 0 4013/11, 6/1* 0 40
Problem 2
| 151 159 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 24/21, 8/4*.
I think Blue should hit here, for all the usual reasons. The real decision for me is how to play the 3. 16/13 is safest, I guess, but the other 3's are more productive. If you knew White were going to hit back, then 24/21 is probably best since it notonly links up the back checkers but starts the anchor. Ifyou knew White were going to miss, then 13/10 brings downa useful cover. Note that if White does return hit, a checkeron the 10-point is then a shooter with the only single diethat doesn't enter -- a six. 4/1* looks like a blitzish type play, but White doesn't have much ammo at the moment.
Whether or not White return hits, 5's figure to play wellafter 24/21. Rather than create a new blot with 13/10, Ithink I'll go the conservative route with 24/21.
Steve Clark: 8/4*, 4/1*.
At the table this is an easy problem. In general it is right to hit blotspushed up to your 4 point unless there is a constructive play available.Here there is no attractive alternative so 8-4 is almost certainly right.Once that play is made none of the building plays looks particularlyattractive. They all involve leaving too many blots, all of which will soonappear on the bar. 16-13 is safe but has the opposite disadvantage of notgiving enough diversification. 4-1 avoids both of these problems. It tiesup White for a roll in exchange or misplacing my checker to my ace point.This play might not win a rollout but it must be very close. I will play8-4-1.
George Klitsas: 13/10, 8/4*.
Blue can play conservatively or aggressively and, at the same time, positionally or an all out attacking game. The most conservative move is 24/20 16/13, which is passive but not necessarily bad for that reason. Another candidate, 24/21 8/4* demonstrates a kind of confusion on Blue's mind. By moving to the 21 point one could say that Blue rather prepares pessimistically to make a defensive anchor if hit back by White, than going forwards. 16/9 is constructive, leaving only one blot , but White hits with all 5's and 8's and, if that happens, the checker will be much more of a strangler than a builder. Between 16/13 8/4* and 13/10 8/4* , I much prefer the latter, which is more aggressive, exploiting the duplication of 4's. Blue needs structure and with this play, he is giving himself the best chance of making eventually his four or ten point. If Blue had been doubled earlier, such a wide open play would have been risky, but with the cube in the middle, Blue will be overkilled in a number of games, butwill obtain a quite playable position in a fair amount of games. I left the double hit (8/4*/1*) last. This play is very weak in this position (although in general, it's often best in the early going). Even if White enters with only one checker, the blot on Blue's ace point and the stripped eight point, will be severe liabilities and will hamper Blue's efforts to stand on his feet. All said, I am between the passive 24/20 16/13 which leaves a cramped position (consider a sequence like White hits loose on his 4 point, Blue enters with a 41 or 16 or 26 - not to mention other sequences after White points on Blue making his 4 point) but only one blot to start with, and the aggressive 13/10 8/4* , which I analyzed earlier. For reasons of style, I slightly prefer the aggressive play 13/10 8/4*.
Rob Maier: 8/4*, 4/1*.
The real choice is between hitting two and hitting none. Not hitting gives White choice of plans depending on which way the dice fall, so better to put two up and not give any options.
Snowie: 8/4*, 4/1*.
White has enough threats that the double-hit to keep him busy is worth-while.Since I can't do very much with this roll, I should make sure that he can'tdo much on his next roll either.
Marty Storer: 8/4*, 4/1*.
8/4* 13/10 is tempting, duplicating 4's and slotting thevaluable 10 point. But I think it's too loose, giving 6double-hitting jokers, 15 more hitting non-jokers to sendback a second checker, and many blots to worry about. Theunlisted 13/6 is also tempting, leaving relatively few shotsand forcing White to strip the midpoint to hit. But 13/6 addsto the 6-point stack, putting little pressure on White andleaving him relatively free to improve his position. 16/9leaves 19 shots, and gives White few problems even on missingnumbers, which mostly anchor or run. 16/9 is bad if Whitehits, and looks like catch-up if White misses, so I rejectthat play too. Because alternatives are significantly risky,the purely defensive 8/4*/1* seems indicated. That gains afew racing pips, stalls White's big threats, and may giveBlue a chance to consolidate something.
Bob Stringer: 13/10, 8/4*.
Of the three hitting plays, I like 13/10 the best, since it aims tograb a good inner board point and I don't mind the blot on the 16point as much as I might, since 4's are duplicated. The double hit issomething I do only when there's really nothing arguably better, or ifthere's a clear upside such as being able to make hay somewhere on theboard while the opponent has two on the bar. Here, I don't see it.16/13 just looks too safe, and 24/21 definitely is out, since it putsmen in danger all over the place. That leaves the 2 non-hitting plays.I don't like 16/9 because if it doesn't work (i.e., if I'm hit) I'veaccomplished nothing except to end up with 2 men back and no structurewhatever. That leaves 24/20, 16/13, which is kinda ok, except that itraces when I'm very slightly behind in the race, and racing with nostructure at all doesn't look like great odds -- White certainly willpounce on the blot without hesitation. That makes hitting plus 13/10 apretty clear choice for me.
Casper van der Tak: 24/20, 16/13.
Blue leads in terms of escape, but is behind in terms of building his position (and slightly behind in the race as well). Blue should build on his advantage, escape, safety his checker on the 16, and start extricating his last back checker. Other plays risk losing the lead in escape, for little gain it the plays work.
Kit Woolsey: 8/4*, 4/1*.
It seems necessary to hit on the four point, particularly since there aren'tany great fours available anyway. Stripping the eight point is not good,but what else is there? Normally I don't like the idea of moving off a goodpoint to hit the second checker on the ace point, but somehow it feels righthere. Blue needs to keep White as busy as possible so Blue has a chanceto consolidate his loose position. Other plays give White too manyhitting numbers, and if White gets the initiative Blue will be in bigtrouble.
Chris Yep: 24/20, 16/13.
Hitting loose with the 4 is awkward since it strips the 8 point. Still, hitting loose with the 4 is a strong candidate since the non-hitting plays have their own weaknesses. Of the hitting plays I like 8/4*/1*, which at least puts two in the air and knocks White off balance. Still, I find stripping the 8 point a little too awkward here. I prefer 24/20 16/13 to play with only one back checker.
Summary: Half of the panel went along with the ugly double-hit. Theimportance of this type of tempo play has become emphasized more and moreby computer rollouts. You never know what will happen when you put youropponent on the bar.
Play Votes Score8/4*, 4/1* 5 10024/20, 16/13 2 7013/10, 8/4* 2 7024/21, 8/4* 1 6016/9 0 4016/13, 8/4* 0 40
Problem 3
| 99 101 | White money game Blue |
Chuck Bower: 11/5, 9/6.
The 3-point looks like the key here. If Blue either startsor makes the 2-point this turn, the 3-point becomes evenmore difficult to make. I'm putting all my eggs in the"make the 3-point" basket. 11/5, 9/6 puts my builders inthe best position (allowed by this roll) to accomplish myprimary goal.
Steve Clark: 11/2.
I am not at all willing to break my prime here. It remains the potentialgame winner. Of the choices which preserve the prime, 11-5, 7-4 looksterribly cramped. Actually 11-2 looks like the obvious choice. I am nottoo afraid of being hit because White will have difficulties containing meon his 2 point even if I come in quickly. It is not even clear that Whiteshould hit me if he does manage to roll an ace. Hitting would give me moreflexibility to make my point in order. 11-2 looks like a standout play.
George Klitsas: 11/5, 9/6.
The super-safe 11/5 7/4 is short-sighted and probably the worst choice. In the subsequent rolls Blue will be obliged, in all probability, to repeatedly leave indirect shots, at a moment when White will have improved his blockade on the other side of the board. By leaving inner blots with 11/8 7/1* or 7/1* 5/2, if hit, Blue has a chance to pick up a second White checker, but there is the danger of entering on White's two point and breaking eventually his own blockade. But the main danger is not that Blue might get hit - this works both ways as we saw. The main danger is that White might enter on Blue's three point or even dance and then Blue might be unable to retain a strong blockade AND cover his inner blot(s). Therefore, I don't vote for any of those alternatives. Remain two candidates that each of them leaves two indirect hits. Making the two point (8/2 5/2) leaves the rolls of 2-5 and 5-2. Creating five active builders (11/5 9/6) leaves 2-6 and 6-2. I thing that in this position it's worth leaving the1/18 shot (when he gets unlucky, notice that Blue has a small life after death chance if he reenters with 2-5 or 2-6 [a fan of 8/2 5/2 would add 2-1!] ) and I vote for the more compact position with no gaps, resulting after 11/5 9/6.
Rob Maier: 11/5, 7/4.
Good things happen to those who wait. This play is even better against someone who won't step up with an ace.
Snowie: 11/8, 7/1*. Bob Stringer: 11/8, 7/1*. Casper van der Tak: 11/5, 7/4. Kit Woolsey: 8/2, 5/2. Chris Yep: 11/8, 7/1*. Summary: It is fascinating to see the panel so divided on what would appear to bea routine technical problem of how best to walk a prime home. Sometimeseven the seemingly easy positions are difficult. I admit I am stillcompletely in the dark on this one. Problem 4 Chuck Bower: 13/11, 13/10. Steve Clark: 24/22, 6/3*. George Klitsas: 13/11, 13/10. Rob Maier: 24/22, 13/10. Snowie: 6/3*, 3/1. Marty Storer: 10/8, 10/7. Bob Stringer: 6/3*, 3/1. Casper van der Tak: 13/11, 13/10. Kit Woolsey: 13/11, 13/10. Chris Yep: 6/3*, 3/1. Summary: The panel felt is better to build quietly rather than leavea direct shot. I can see the merits of hitting, but I'll still go alongwith the building play. Problem 5 Chuck Bower: 10/8, 6/3. Steve Clark: 10/8, 6/3. George Klitsas: 11/6. Rob Maier: 10/8, 4/1*. Snowie: 10/8, 4/1*. Marty Storer: 10/8, 4/1*. Bob Stringer: 10/8, 4/1*. Casper van der Tak: 10/8, 4/1*. Kit Woolsey: 10/8, 6/3. Chris Yep: 10/8, 6/3. Summary: In a close vote, the panel chose to hit loose in orderto do something with the spare checker on the four point. Perhaps thatis right. The potential upside and downside are difficult to weigh. Problem 6 Chuck Bower: 24/20, 7/4. Steve Clark: 24/21, 24/20. George Klitsas: 24/20, 7/4. Rob Maier: 7/3, 6/3. Snowie: 24/20, 11/8. Marty Storer: 24/20, 7/4. Bob Stringer: 24/20, 7/4. Casper van der Tak: 7/3, 6/3. Kit Woolsey: 24/20, 7/4. Chris Yep: 24/20, 7/4. Summary: The panel firmly put defense ahead of offense in thisposition, emphasizing the natural followup of slotting the best innerboard point which could reasonably be slotted. This sure looks to me likethe natural thing to do. Problem 7 Chuck Bower: 11/6. Steve Clark: 11/6. George Klitsas: 11/6. Rob Maier: 13/11, 6/3*. Snowie: 11/6. Marty Storer: 11/6. Bob Stringer: 11/6. Casper van der Tak: 6/3*, 3/1*. Kit Woolsey: 11/6. Chris Yep: 11/6. Summary: A solid vote for sitting on the position and leavingnothing. There simply isn't much to be gained by hitting. Problem 8 Chuck Bower: 13/8, 13/7. Steve Clark: 13/8, 13/7. George Klitsas: 8/2, 6/1*. Rob Maier: 13/8, 13/7. Snowie: 8/2, 6/1*. Marty Storer: 8/2, 6/1*. Bob Stringer: 13/8, 13/7. Casper van der Tak: 13/8, 13/7. Kit Woolsey: 13/8, 13/7. Chris Yep: 13/7, 6/1*. Summary: The panel voted for clearing the midpoint and leaving only oneblot. This sure looks right to me. The prospect of having two blotspicked up is frightening, even if this isn't too likely to happen.
Probably fairly obviously, numbers that blot in the inner boardare no good. 11/5 7/4 is safe for the moment, but awkward onlarge numbers next time. A play like 11/5 9/6 may be at worstslightly wrong; here, I think it's best, giving a good distributionand very good chances to roll home safely. The time may be rightto leave White the 62, because Blue has 4 nice returns. If Blueis forced to risk a 17-1 shot in the future, White will probablyhave a more threatening forward position.
First, what about the plays that dump a blot in the inner board? Ican't see 7/1*, 5/2 because the prime starts to crumble pretty soon,and it's far from guaranteed that it can be reassembled. I think thetrick is not to do something that's too awkward, and rolling thatprime in when 2 men have already been dumped into the board doesn'tlook easy. 11/2 looks even worse, because the prime could start todissolve on almost the very next roll (consider how a 6-5 would feel).After 11/8, 7/1* looks to be the most flexible of the group -- most ofmy next rolls play ok, and so if I hit that's my choice. Next, whatabout the non-hitting plays? 11/5, 7/4 really piles them up (i.e.,isn't flexible), and while 11/5, 9/6 isn't as inflexible, it gives upa huge joker. So does 8/2, 5/2, but it also starts to fill in theboard and sticks a nice broken prime in front of White. That makes8/2, 5/2 is my non-hitting choice. Bottom line: I can't see givingWhite the joker if I don't have to. 11/8, 7/1* it is.
I do not know, really. I want to keep my 6 prime, and I do not want to leave a 17-1 shot that allows White to hit and escape at the same time. Slotting the 2-point has the disadvantage that it is the wrong point to slot; I do not think this can be correct. 11/5 7/4 has the disadvantage that Blue's next roll might be awkward (some will leave indirect shots, and it will be difficult to fill in the 3 point).
An important factor is finally that Blue is slightly ahead in the race. Blue is doing fine if not hit. Should White be ahead in the race, plays that offer more flexibility in exchange for some shots (say 11/5 9/6) would have more to recommend themselves.
This is a very difficult position. Blue doesn't have much of a racing lead,and the prime is not easy to roll forward. White's blockade is strongenough that plays such as 11/2 or 11/8, 7/1* may be too risky. White couldhit back and win the priming battle, or Blue might not be able to put thepieces together in time.
Playing safe with 11/5, 7/4 makes the followup awkward. A more diversifiedapproach is 11/5, 9/6, which pays off to the 17 to 1 joker but leavesplenty of builders for the three point. The problem is that even if Bluedoes make the three point next turn he will immediately be faced with thejob of making the two point, and his builders might be so well-placed forthat.
Since Blue is going to need the two point soon in any event, I believe theright idea is to make it now. 8/2, 5/2 pays off to the 17 to 1 shot, butif Blue survives that at least his checkers are mobile so the next coupleof rolls will play easily. The point is that Blue doesn't need to rollthe prime forward to win the game. He simply needs to keep White containedfor a few turns while not getting hit. Having an open three point by itselfwon't cost Blue the game.
Keeping the full 6-prime looks essential. Even giving White two numbers to hit and escape (or mostly escape) is too many in my opinion. If Blue could make the next point in line, the 3 point, then I believe leaving two shots would be worth it. Blue can't do that here though, so 11/5 9/6 and 8/2 5/2 look too risky. Of the remaining moves, 7/1* 5/2 looks too awkward to be correct. 11/5 7/4 is also awkward -- it's good if the next roll contains two small numbers, but plays awkwardly on many large numbers. The top two moves, in my opinion, are 11/2 and 11/8 7/1*. Of these I have a slight preference for 11/8* 7/1. Both moves dump a checker past the 3 point, but only 11/8 7/1* has the advantage of hitting White off the ace point. Hopefully, for Blue, White will re-enter on the 2 or 3 point. Play Votes Score11/8, 7/1* 3 10011/5, 9/6 3 9011/5, 7/4 2 8011/2 1 708/2, 5/2 1 707/1*, 5/2 0 40
131
138
White
money game
Blue
Unlike last month's problem 2, which at first seems similar,hitting loose doesn't look right. With two White checkersback, even if Blue escapes one with 6-x, the other remainsto be attacked or trapped. In addition, the downside ismore likely to occur because White gets more return shots. Finally, Blue has only one checker back which argues against a bold hitting-loose play.
13/10 looks like the 3. Between 24/22 and 13/11, I preferthe latter. The lone back checker is vulnerable to attackwherever it's placed, but particularly so on the 22-point. White is still a ways away from making a full primeso this is no time to panic. 13/11 brings a builder inrange of the 5-point and gives White only 6-2 and 6-3 tohit. Since Blue definitely wants that point, it seems worththe risk.
Kit has posed similar problems in the past and my rollouts show that I haveconsistently gotten the wrong answer. I have made plays like 13-10, 13-11or 13-10, 24-22 but jellyfish and snowie have been totally unsympathetic. Ifinally have seen the error of my ways, and this time I am going to make mynew solution to these problems. I am totally confident that jellyfish andsnowie will be completely supportive. Sure.
The principle seems to be this: If you have a busted outside prime and youropponent has push one of his checkers forward from his 24 point so that itis 6 pips away from the hole in the prime, you should hit that checkerunless you have something constructive to do. Do you buy this? I guess Ido until something else comes along. Once I have played 6-3, I do not seeany 2 that I particularly want to play. Maybe 24-22 might be constructiveso I will do that.
I have little doubt about this one - I think 13/11 13/10 stands out as the winner. Compared to 13/8, for example, this play leaves two more indirect shots, but, in return, gives Blue almost twice as many numbers to make crucial points. After the suggested play, Blue has a decent chance to win the priming battle, having a timing advantage (being behind in the race).
Stepping up is a mixed bag. Making it more difficult for White to make the five point safely outweighs the danger of being attacked up on the twenty two point.
I do not want to let White have his full roll. He has too many good thingshe can do, such as escaping a back checker or making his five point. Afterhitting, I might as well move on to the ace point. Fewer return shots isthe big consideration. 24/22 doesn't help me escape and exposes me to anattack. 13/11 leaves too many blots. 8/6 is too ugly for words.
This play leaves no new blot, and puts builders in good places.It puts pressure on White's back checkers and makes White's64 somewhat bad. It gives a good mix of priming and attackingchances. My close second choice is 13/10 13/11, but that leaves4 numbers to hit on the 11 point and doesn't threaten to attackquite as quickly. What I like about 13/10 13/11 is its primingchances, in conjunction with keeping the 10 point. But I hatethe 4 shots at the 11 point, so I'll go with the weenie play.
I decided on this one right away. I don't want to advance the back manand make him a target; I definitely don't want to give up the 10point; and with White threatening to start an escape if he rolls a 6,I'd like to keep the midpoint too. That leaves the God-awful 6/1 asthe final alternative, and it is to be despised for uglifying myposition *and* letting White do just about anything he wants with hisnext roll.
I'd prefer not get a second checker send back, so I do not like plays involving 6/3*, for example; I do not want to step up to the 22 point and hence activate White's builders on the 7, 8 and 9 point, so 13/10 24/22 is out of the question. 13/11 13/10 is a play that aims to build Blue's prime, primarily by focussing on the 5-point. After Blue's position has improved he can start to extricate his back checker.
Moving the back checkers walks right into White's stack on the six point.White has a stiff position, and Blue should not give White a chance toattack. Blue's back checker is not in great danger of being hemmed in, andBlue has room to play on his side of the board. White has two checkersback, and the main concern is to blockade these checkers. 13/11, 13/10gives Blue two new builders at the cost of four hitting numbers. Thatlooks like a good bargain.
With White's 13 checkers massed on the other side of the board, I feel that Blue has to take away half of White's roll to prevent him from building on the other side of the board. 24/22 6/3* and 13/11 6/3* give White too many return hits in my opinion. I like 6/3*/1 which gives White only 11 numbers to hit Blue's ace point blot. Note further that some of White's hitting numbers (3-1 and 4-1) are duplicated on the other side of the board anyway. Play Votes Score13/11, 13/10 5 1006/3*, 3/1 3 8024/22, 6/3* 1 6010/8, 10/7 1 6024/22, 13/10 0 4013/8 0 4013/11, 6/3* 0 406/1 0 40
129
128
White
money game
Blue
My vote for "toughest problem of the month". There are good reasons for hitting and good reasons for not hitting. I can hem and haw about which hitting play I like best and which non-hitting play I like best, but in the end I'll have to choose between hitting and not hitting. So why not choose right up front?
White can play singles of any variety except 2's with the back checkers, but no rolls get both checkers cleanly away, and many rolls don't get either checker free. That means that if Blue just bides his time, there will be more opportunities. Inaddition, Blue really wants the 20-point, not the 1- or 2-point. So even when the hit works, Blue will have workremaining. And when it fails..., I don't want to think aboutthat! I've decided not to hit.
The 'safe' (that is, non-hitting) plays still leave a minimum of 6 shots, except for one: 10/8, 6/3. Blue is at the edge of White's prime and owns the cube. Both of these conditions argue against forcing the issue. Normally I throw out 'disgusting' plays like 6/3, but often in these monthly quizes, the play I throw away first turns out to be best. Well, not this time. I doubt I would have made this play over-the-board, but I'm going with the super-safe (brand me "weenie of the month" if it gives you a thrill) 10/8, 6/3. I'm definitely going to be alive and kicking next turn, which isn't a guarantee for any of the alternatives.
I find it virtually impossible in this type of position to judge the valueof hitting my opponent. 11-8, 4-2 looks much too loose for me, and hittingon the ace point seems misdirected. Even so my rollouts sometimes make oneof the hits a significnt winner. My own concept is somewhat different. Iam slightly ahead in the race. I think I should keep my head down and tryto get lucky, escape, and win the race. This is not an unreasonable hope.White clearly is the favorite but at each roll White will have bad numbersand I will have lucky rolls which could turn the tables. The play thatsuits this concept is 10-8, 6-3. It leaves no blots and waits for more lucknext roll. None of my checkers are badly misplaced by this play. It looksright to me.
I slightly prefer 11/6 over 11/8 10/8 , despite the fact that my play leaves 2 more shots (11/9 11/8 is out of the question, for it leaves much more shots without enough compensation). It's probably close, but I like the fourth checker on Blue's six point after 11/6 and the three outside builders (two active on the 10 and 11 points and one semi-active on the stripped eight point).
Our forward position calls for a bit of aggression. The only safe play (10/8, 6/3) is too ugly to contemplate. Hitting on the ace point allows us to safe the other blot.
I have to try to get something going. If I just sit on the position, it istoo easy for White to escape. The spare on the four point isn't doingany good just sitting there, so I might as well activate it. My boardis as strong as White's, and getting a blitz going is a serious possibility.I won't like it if I am hit back, but I can still survive.
Virtually forced. Blue has absolutely no attractive blotlessplay. He might as well hit. He gains a lot when White staysout. Any other hitting play involves some big concession, soBlue keeps all his points, keeps builders in good places, andleaves only one blot.
Another one I didn't think about very long, although it's a difficultposition (I think). What I'd like to do is fill in my 5 or 7 point (inthat order of priority), "un-split" White's back men, and either keepthem both stuck behind a blockade or have one of them dance longenough for me to try to run. Tall order, but that seems to be the bestway to try to win this thing. I also don't want to leave a blot in theoutfield -- White's back men being split, that gives him too manyshots, and being hit would just about be the end of it. Putting thattogether, 10/8 lifts the blot, and 4/1* diverts White's attention fromescaping with a 5 or 6, to trying to enter in a reasonable manner. Ifhe hits . . . well, life's not perfect.
Blue's broken position does not lend it self to a prime vs prime game; and as a holding game, Blue's position is unplayable for timing reasons. I would hence attack and hope to escape. 10/8 4/1 follows the attacking plan in the most prudent fashion, since it would be a large setback to have another checker sent back.
I must earn the wimp of the year award for this play. However, the variousattacking plays don't look to promising, and getting a third checker sentback would be really bad. The race is close and the back checkershave an outlet, so if Blue can avoid anything bad happening he can win evenif White is able to escape. The loss of the spare on the six point willbe felt, but Blue still has decent diversification after 10/8, 6/3. Otherplays strike me as risking too much without sufficient gain.
With Blue having a weak prime and White having a strong 5-prime on the other side of the board it will be difficult for Blue to attack this turn. Instead I think Blue should just play safe. Getting hit and losing 20 or so pips is costly here since the race is currently even. I prefer the simple 10/8 6/3, which still preserves Blue's attacking chances for next turn in the variations where White still has two vulnerable blots in Blue's inner board. Play Votes Score10/8, 4/1* 5 10010/8, 6/3 4 9011/6 1 6011/9, 11/8 0 4011/8, 10/8 0 4011/8, 4/2* 0 4011/9, 4/1* 0 406/1* 0 40
149
166
White
money game
Blue
This looks like a classic early game decision: anchor orhomeside point? With White already owning a second homeboardpoint, Blue's blot on the 20-point is a bit vulnerable.Furthermore, White has several builders and definitely wantsto give up the 8-point. Not playing 24/20 will often leaveBlue regretting that decision later. Hey, Barclay Cookewasn't always wrong! Grab the golden point. After that,moving the vulnerable blot up (7/4) seems to give Blue morecounterplay if White happens to hit it.
When trying to decide whether to make an defensive play or an aggressiveplay, I try to look where the action is. In a tie I will go for theaggressive play. In this position the action seems to be on the opponent'sside of the board. Furthermore it is particularly important to make anadvanced anchor when the opponent has made the 2 point.
All this indicates that I should make the 20 point. If so, where do I playthe 3? Both 7-4 and 24-21 come to mind but neither seems attractive. Ifind these choices unconvincing. What about making the 4 point?Unfortunately this play leaves me rather defenseless.
A strange looking play which could be right is 11-7, 24-21. This increasesmy defense by making it hard for White to hit and cover both of my blotsadvanced in his inner board.
All of this leaves me uncertain as to what I should do. Oh, well, I willmake a blind stab at 24-20, 24-21. If you want more definitive guidance asto the best play, you better read one of the other answers.
Blue must definitely make his opponent's 5 point with the four (24/20). This will protect him for some time from a double by White. As for the three, I definitely like 7/4. Hitting two's are partially duplicated, considering rolls like 32 or 42 and, very important as well, White does not go far after hitting - 24/20 7/4 is the play.
A lesser point, but the spare on the eight point is important. Making an offensive point outweighs making the defensive advanced anchor.
Making the 20 point has to have the highest priority. I have three men back,and I need an advanced anchor. After that, it is cleanup time. In additionto blot minimization, White's fives are quite duplicated since he canhit on the ace point or play 13/8 comfortable with them. White doesn'thave any good twos, so I don't want to create one for him by movingto the four point.
Blue must make the 20 point; no forward point Blue can nowmake would compensate for being pointed on. The Golden Anchorhelps make White's 2 point look foolish. Then 7/4 looksa little better than 11/8; White's bar-point blot givesBlue the license to take a slight extra risk in returnfor slotting a more valuable point and keeping moreflexible.
If I were going to play forward, I'd do it with 8/4, 7/4, making a thebest inner point available -- stripping the 8 point is worth it,versus making the 3 point. However, White has the better board and ifI don't cover his five point a bunch of his rolls (1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4,5-5, 2-1, 3-1, 3-2, 5-4, 6-3) play *really* well, and quite a fewothers still leave him with a more than satisfactory position (4-2,4-3, 5-1, 6-1, 6-5). 24/20 therefore is necessary. 24/21 is out, sinceI'm behind in the race and staying on the 24 makes life more awkwardfor White. Also, 24/21 puts 3 blots in jeopardy, for no particulargood reason. Therefore, after 24/20 I'll play one of the 2 advancedblots. 11/8 is ok, but too passive and inflexible. That leaves 7/4,which is half-way to making a good point if the checker isn't hit.
This is a play is strongest for building Blue's front position. I do not like plays involving 24/20, since these will leave to many shots up front. The real alternative is 8/4 7/4, but that leaves a worse distribution of builders than 7/3 6/3.
Making the advanced anchor must have priority over making an inner boardpoint. Blue has three back checkers, and if they get hemmed in Blue's gamewill collapse. After that, Blue might as well start the best inner boardpoint he can start.
Should Blue anchor? It's not clear, but I think he should since the 20 point blot is currently under the gun and Blue is out-boarded. Blue does not want to be forced into an ace point game. If Blue plays 24/20, he has three reasonable 3s. 24/21 gives White too many good numbers (2s, 3s, and 5s) next roll. 7/4 leaves an extra blot (compared to 11/8), but slots the 4 point which is probably more valuable to Blue than the bar point. Also 7/4 gives Blue more ways to cover next roll than if he had played 11/8. A final factor (a minor factor here) is that 7/4 is slightly better at duplicating White's good numbers (4-2 and 3-2 are duplicated) than 11/8 (only 5-1 is duplicated). Play Votes Score24/20, 7/4 6 1007/3, 6/3 2 7024/21, 24/20 1 6024/20, 11/8 1 6024/21, 11/7 0 4011/7, 8/5 0 4011/7, 6/3 0 408/4, 7/4 0 40
164
158
White
money game
Blue
A typical position with conflicting rules. Blue has an anchor while White has only a pseudo-anchor. This argues for agression. But Blue leads in the race -- 7 pips after this roll and after discounting it being White's turn. Throwin the fact that White has a better board and 'safe' looks better than 'bold'. In addition, White's position is a bit inflexible since his only spares are on the 8-, 22-, and 24-points. That seals the deal for me. 11/6 is anti-positional, but is otherwise thematic. The stars are pointing towards letting White make the next tough decision.
This problem reminds me of problem 2 of this month. Again the double hitcan't be too far off the mark. Here, however, there is a cowardlyalternative which draws my eye. 11-6 leave no blots, and give me the hopeof a better roll next time. That is another play which, if it is not thebest play, will be quite close to being the best. If I have to, I canalways make the brave inside hit next roll. If I am lucky, I may never haveto leave a blot. Either play could be best but I rather prefer 11-6.Cowardly alternatives are always very close to my heart.
I don't see it even as a problem. I can't see what is wrong with the obvious 11/6 in a slightly better race for Blue.
I'm a sucker for outside primes. I wouldn't argue against hitting two.
When ahead in the race, race. I can afford to sit on the position and hopeto roll better next time. Anything which leaves a shot plays into White'shands. This one is easy.
With a slight edge in the race, nothing fancy is needed.No hitting play is very threatening, anyway. Blue playssafe for now, with plenty of ways to make the 4 or 5 pointnext time, or to continue to play safe.
My first inclination was 13/11, 6/3*. The problem is that it gives metoo many points to maintain. More likely than not, something will haveto give on my next roll. Since a lot of play remains in this game, I'dlike to keep the midpoint -- which eliminates the other plays with13/11. In fact, I don't even want to strip the midpoint while leavinga blot on the 11 point (to hit back, I'd then have to give up themidpoint), so 13/8 and 13/10 are out as well. 6/3*, 3/1* is anotherone of those double hits where I don't see the reason for it, unlessit's simply for want of something better to do. In this case, 11/6 ismore satisfactory. It leaves my position slightly less flexible thanit was before I rolled the 2-3, but my structure is still reasonable.The race is close, and since my structure looks decent enough after11/6, I see no reason to leave a blot out there in the face of White'sbetter board. 11/6 is good enough.
Either this or 11/6; other plays do not provide sufficient potential gains for the shots left. 11/6 is a play based on the slight lead Blue has in the race; 6/3*/1* puts two of White's checkers in the air, slows down White's development, and has the most upside, either to increase the lead in the race, or to continue a successful attack.
Blue is ahead in the race. White has the stronger inner board. White hasmore men back. Everything screams for the safe play. The double-hit doesn'taccomplish much if it works, and it loses a lot if White hits back. The gameplan is to roll big doubles and win, and that plan won't work if Blue is onthe bar or behind in the race.
With White having an advanced anchor, Blue having only a 1 point board, and the race reasonably close to even, it doesn't look right to leave any direct shots. Of the "non-safe" plays (all plays other than 11/6), only 6/3*/1*, which puts two on the bar, is a serious candidate in my opinion. Even here, it doesn't seem worth it, since 11/6 still leaves Blue with a solid structure for the future. I prefer the "safe" 11/6. Play Votes Score11/6 8 10013/11, 6/3* 1 606/3*, 3/1* 1 6013/8 0 4013/11, 13/10 0 4013/10, 8/6 0 4013/11, 8/5 0 40
153
118
White
money game
Blue
Since I don't have an initial favorite, let's play "process of elimination." Blotting twice in the homeboard (8/3, 8/2 or 8/2, 6/1*) doesn't make sense to me. These moves leave two blots, double shots, and don't help to clear either the midpoint or the 11-point. The other plays leave fewer blots and/or fewer shots, and help solve a future clearage problem.
13/8, 13/7 leaves 23 shots, but only one blot. 13/2 leaves 16 shots and 2 blots while 13/7, 6/1* leave 18 shots and 3 blots, but is probably easier to clean up than 13/2.
A big question is: "how bad is getting hit?" After this turn (but before getting hit), Blue has a 36 pip lead. Getting hit on the 2-point costs 23 pips but still leaves Blue on roll with a 13 pip lead. The hits after the othertwo alternate plays cost even less in the race. I don't think White will be close to a recube after any single hit. But that's a reasonably sized 'if' because *some* plays giveWhite a chance at a second hit. That's the key for me. 13/7, 13/8 clears the 13-point and leaves only one blot. If it works, Blue has a relatively easy cleanup. If it fails, Blue still leads in the race, and White is unlikely to get an immediate second blot to shoot at.
How many plays leave only one blot? 13-8, 13-7 seems to be it. One ofClark's rules is that all blots remain blots until they are hit or the nextgame starts. I guess that is my play.
Exactly the opposite - here I am confused! As a principle, I don't like many blots strewn around, so I reject 13/7 6/1* (in a number of games White could even go for an un(re)doubled gammon). Another move, 13/2, leaves two blots and looks like duplication for duplication's sake (not to count 62, 53, 66 and 44 that also hit). The only play that leaves only one blot 13/8 13/7, is worth considering if only for that reason. White hits with 22 rolls tho, and, even if survives after the first roll, Blue has the problem of consolidation. Compared to 8/3 8/2, 8/2 6/1* looks slightly better, putting White on the bar and gaining when he dances and when he enters with a 3 or a 5. I can't be sure, but I vote for 8/2 6/1*, which offers a clear(!?) route to victory.
Four more shots than 13/2, and two more shots than 8/2, 6/1*, but one less blot than either of them, and one less point to clear if it works.
I'm going to have to leave a double shot in all variations, so I might aswell do something productive. My play kicks that annoying checker off myace point. If White is forced to enter high I will be able to playbehind him. Also, my play unstacks heavy points and starts a couple of innerboard points of my own. Clearing the midpoint looks superficially attractive,but even if the shot is missed it will be difficult to find a safe playnext turn.
There are only three real choices here. 13/7 13/8 clearsa problem point, leaving one blot and 22 hitting numbers,with a significant problem safetying the blot if Whitemisses. 13/2 clears a problem point, leaving only 17shots but two blots, again with a significant safetyingproblem should White miss. I prefer 8/2 6/1*, leavingtwo blots and 20 hitting numbers, but gaining a lot onWhite's 4 stay-out numbers, also gaining when White isforced forward on his other 12 misses. When White hits,Blue's midpoint helps keep him very much alive.
Aargh! Against White's nice-looking position I can't see hanging 2blots out there, even if duplication is possible. White only has tohit one of them to have a good chance of picking up the other. Thatmakes 13/8, 13/7 the only move for me.
This play is the only one that breaks a point that needs to be broken soon; others leave a lot of shots now, but will also require leaving multiple shots one or two rolls from now.
Blot minimization is very important here. Blue can stand having one checkersent back. White's board is not complete, and a hit checker will have agood chance to squirm out. Two checkers back would be disastrous. Inaddition, 13/8, 13/7 clears the midpoint and starts the important bar pointshould White miss the double shot. No other candidate has this much goingfor it.
By a quick count every move leaves about the same number of shots (17-22 shots). Blue has a big race lead (46 or 47 pips after the roll) and would prefer to break contact as quickly as possible. If it weren't for White's checker on Blue's ace point, many (but not all) of Blue's problems would be solved. While each move has its plusses and minuses I prefer 13/7 6/1*. It leaves only 18 shots (but unfortunately 3 blots), but more importantly knocks White off the ace point, slots the bar point, and starts to clear the midpoint. These benefits are enough to outweigh the fact that it leaves 3 blots in my opinion. Play Votes Score13/8, 13/7 6 1008/2, 6/1* 3 8013/7, 6/1* 1 6013/2 0 408/3, 8/2 0 40
Vote Summary
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8Chuck Bower 24/22, 6/1* 24/21, 8/4* 11/5, 9/6 13/11, 13/10 10/8, 6/3 24/20, 7/4 11/6 13/8, 13/7Steve Clark 13/11, 10/5 8/4*, 4/1* 11/2 24/22, 6/3* 10/8, 6/3 24/21, 24/20 11/6 13/8, 13/7George Klitsas 13/11, 13/8 13/10, 8/4* 11/5, 9/6 13/11, 13/10 11/6 24/20, 7/4 11/6 8/2, 6/1*Rob Maier 24/22, 13/8 8/4*, 4/1* 11/5, 7/4 24/22, 13/10 10/8, 4/1* 7/3, 6/3 13/11, 6/3* 13/8, 13/7Snowie 13/11, 13/8 8/4*, 4/1* 11/8, 7/1* 6/3*, 3/1 10/8, 4/1* 24/20, 11/8 11/6 8/2, 6/1*Marty Storer 13/11, 10/5 8/4*, 4/1* 11/5, 9/6 10/8, 10/7 10/8, 4/1* 24/20, 7/4 11/6 8/2, 6/1*Bob Stringer 13/11, 13/8 13/10, 8/4* 11/8, 7/1* 6/3*, 3/1 10/8, 4/1* 24/20, 7/4 11/6 13/8, 13/7Casper van der Tak 13/11, 13/8 24/20, 16/13 11/5, 7/4 13/11, 13/10 10/8, 4/1* 7/3, 6/3 6/3*, 3/1* 13/8, 13/7Kit Woolsey 24/22, 13/8 8/4*, 4/1* 8/2, 5/2 13/11, 13/10 10/8, 6/3 24/20, 7/4 11/6 13/8, 13/7Chris Yep 24/22, 13/8 24/20, 16/13 11/8, 7/1* 6/3*, 3/1 10/8, 6/3 24/20, 7/4 11/6 13/7, 6/1*